I couldn’t go home without sampling the local motsu, which brought us to dinner at Kuriya, a restaurant known for serving these offcuts of beef and pork, cooked on a grill at your table. This type of meal has become a celebrated part of Japanese cuisine, not just for its taste, but out of practicality. The country has limited space for cultivating produce and raising meat animals, so maximizing the yield is standard practice. Beyond the practicality of it all, the comprehensive use respects the life and energy that has gone to produce these products we are about to eat. We sit outside in a small parking lot, cooking on a binchotan, a grill with special charcoal that doesn’t flare up as the grease and fat drips off the meat. This cooking style preserves the flavors and also avoids any burnt taste bursting onto the meat. I’m in my element. My cooking skills are coming into good use here as each cut is unique and needs to be grilled differently for the best texture and flavor. There are so many unusual cuts–beef cheek, calf liver, mino (which is a unique cut of tripe), throat muscle, inner skirt, outer skirt, beef tongue, chicken neck muscle, all with specific sauces for dipping.
The traditional kanpai leaves no glass empty as we consume round after round of this freshly grilled offal. The celebratory glass filling and a meal cooked over a centralized grill offers a uniquely Japanese flavor to the most universal feeling of conviviality and hospitality that comes from sharing a meal together.
Though we’re full of drinks and freshly grilled offcuts, there’s no escaping the next morning’s early roll out to ride before it gets too hot. Not a problem for me, as jet lag has me up and outside at 4 a.m.. The singing cicadas sound like a thousand car alarms going off at once. Apparently, it’s the sound of summer here.
The ride takes us from Sakai to Kyoto, beginning at the 450-year-old Osaka Castle. We wind through the city to a bike path that follows the river, past baseball fields, runners and cyclists of all ages. We pop off to grab a quick snack and water at a 7-Eleven. It’s a very different kind of mini-mart experience than I’ve ever had in the US. This one is packed with an incredible selection of healthy, delicious foods. There are onigiri rice ball flavors like salmon, sesame spinach, seaweed, tuna, spicy pollack roe, spicy tuna and vegetable. The coolers and freezers are filled with cold meals and treats, like a egg sandwiches with perfectly jammied yolks, ice creams galore, frozen fruit, iced coffee drinks, eight different non-alcoholic beers and my new favorite drink, Pocari Sweat, a Japanese electrolyte drink, which comes in handy with the heat. Mid-summer here is hot, like 98-degrees Fahrenheit with 100-percent humidity. Stifling!