The days are getting longer, and the temperatures are warming up. That means it's time to pull the bike out of the garage and get it ready to roll for a big season of riding ahead. Whether you've taken the entire winter off or occasionally braved the foul weather for an outside ride, it's important to check over your bike at the beginning of each season and ensure everything is in working order before hitting the road.

The following quick check guide of essential systems–brakes, shifting, chain, and tires– will ensure the bike is ready for everyday adventures this spring and summer. Take a little time now to check out your bike and make sure that little mechanicals don't cause any big problems down the road.

Use a chain wear indicator to determine if the chain is stretched out or if it's still in the optimal range. A worn chain wears out other (more expensive) components like chainrings and a cassette faster, so check the chain regularly throughout the season and replace it as needed. Additionally, examine if the chain is clean. You didn't put it away dirty, did you? If so, use a brush and degreaser to clean it, then re-lube it using a bike-specific chain lube. Something water-resistant like Motorex’s Road Strong Chain Lube is great for the variable conditions and soggy roads of spring.

To properly lube a chain, first make sure it is clean and dry. Use the brush and some warm, soapy water or bio-degreaser like the Motorex Bike Chain Degreaser Spray to remove dirt and gunk. Be sure to rinse the chain with water, then immediately dry with a rag or air compressor. It's crucial to dry the chain since moisture can cause oxidation and rust.

With a nice, clean, dry chain, take a bottle of chain lube and drop a single drop on each roller (the cylinder that is perpendicular to each link). That's around 100-116 drops depending on chain length. With a drop on each roller, backpedal the chain several times to ensure the lubricant penetrates the inside of the chain. Then, wipe the chain dry of any excess lube. Why wipe it dry? Any leftover lube will actually attract dirt, fouling the chain quicker and requiring more frequent repeats of this cleaning and relubricating process.

To charge the main Di2 battery, connect the charging cable to the rear derailleur and a power source. Not charging? Check the connections of the Di2 wires using the supplied Di2 tool (EW-SD300). Or consider a fresh battery before the season. When replacing batteries, be it a coin cell or the rechargeable lithium-ion Di2 battery, properly dispose of spent batteries in the proper recycling bin or take them to a recycling center.

Checking Shifter Batteries 

Each 12-speed Di2 shifter has its own coin-cell battery, which allows it to wirelessly communicate with the rest of the drivetrain. To check the coin-cell batteries in a Di2 system, press and hold both shifter buttons on one of the levers at the same time for half a second. The LED on the shifter will light up and indicate the battery level. Note and check the other shifter with the same simple process.

Shifter Battery Light Indicators

• Steady green means 100% to 11%
• Steady red means 10% to 1%
• No light: needs a new battery

For bikes with a mechanical GRX or Shimano 105 drivetrain, it’s a good idea to check your cables and housing to ensure crips and efficient shifting. On these bikes, the drivetrain components are connected by a cable that runs from the shifters back to the derailleurs. When you shift your bike to a new gear, the shift lever pulls or releases the cable by a specific amount, which moves the front or rear derailleur to actuate the shift. Shift cables run through cable housing, which is a semi-flexible tube that guides and protects the inner cable.

Over time, the cables can stretch slightly, and road grime can get into the cable housing and gunk up your shifting performance. Check that your bike is shifting properly before hitting the road this spring. If it feels sticky or slow to respond, consider replacing your bike’s cables and housing for smooth, consistent shifting performance.

Hydraulic brakes on road and gravel bikes are durable and effective, but the system still has a few components that should be inspected at the start of the season to ensure proper function. When you say stop, you want the bike to stop! Pay special attention to the brake pads and the brake fluid when examining the entire braking system.  

Visually inspect brake pads to determine how much they have left or see if it's time to replace them with a fresh set. Examine the raised pad that contacts the rotor. There should be material visible past the metal spring clamp that holds the pads in place. If the material is even with the metal spring clamp, it's definitely time to replace the pads.  

Another indicator that it’s time to change your brake pads is if you hear a metal-on-metal grinding noise during braking. That’s the sound of overly worn brake pads that need to be replaced immediately, or you could risk damaging the rotors.

See if the brake hoses are worn or if the outer casing has been rubbed through at any point. Also, check if there is oil on or around the brake calipers or levers. Both are red flags that parts of the system probably need to be repaired or replaced. Consider changing the hoses and rebleeding, or take the bike to a local shop for repair.

For those comfortable bleeding their own brakes, consider replacing the fluid at least once a season using Shimano’s easy-to-use bleeding funnel. That way you can visually inspect the old fluid that comes out of the caliper. It should normally be pink and translucent. If it is dark or black, this indicates contamination and the fluid should be completely changed using a brake bleed procedure.

For those who don’t want to mess with opening up the brake system, a simple squeeze of the levers can give a quick diagnosis of the status of brake fluid. Pull the brake levers and take note. Do they feel spongy? Do they pull all the way to the bar? Either symptom can indicate issues like air or contaminants in the brake hoses or a fluid leak. Perform a brake bleed with Shimano's easy-bleed funnel or take the bike to a favorite local shop for help.

Make sure each brake rotor is in good condition. Discoloration on rotors is a sign to clean or replace them. While some surface wear is normal, too much can lead to poor braking performance. The CenterLock design makes rotor replacement quick and easy with the right tool. The design also evenly distributes the torque of the lockring, meaning a simpler installation process.  

Go over the entire bike with a torque wrench to ensure everything is tightened to spec. This value is usually written on each component in Newton-meters, or the values can be found on the Shimano website and user manuals. The bar and stem bolts are among the most critical bolts to check as they secure the steering and handling. Additionally, check the derailleur mounting bolts, seat clamp bolt, and saddle fixing bolts. Proper torque will prevent slippage and improve the longevity of parts and fasteners. If any bolt heads appear worn, consider replacing them to avoid stripping the head or damaging tools.

Test the smoothness of the bearings in the bike's headset, bottom bracket, hubs, and pedals. Are they crunchy, or do they have excess play during normal use? If so, they need service or replacement. Some bearings can be opened up and cleaned/repacked, but other fully sealed designs require replacement. Headsets and threaded bottom brackets have the most user-friendly replacements for the DIY-inclined. If the bearings require a special removal or installation tool, like press-fit bottom brackets or hubs, head to the local shop, which will be happy to help with these services.

Examine your bike’s tires for wear or significant damage. If the rubber looks cracked or excessively worn, consider replacing your tires for the start of the season. If the casing is visible through any slashes in the tread or sidewall, it’s time to consider new tires as well. There’s nothing quite like some fresh rubber to get the new season rolling. 

If the tires look good, be sure to consider the state of sealant when using tubeless tires. Even sealant that was fresh a few months ago can crust up and become a rubbery latex pancake if it sits too long. Give the tire a shake and listen for a sloshing noise. If there’s not one, there’s a good chance the sealant has gelled up. To visually inspect, pop one tire bead off the rim and orient the wheel with the tire opening at six o'clock. If no liquid sealant flows to the bottom, remove the tire, scoop out the old sealant, and replace it with fresh liquid.

Sealant can be refilled in one of two ways. Either pop the bead off the rim just enough to pour 1-2 ounces of sealant inside the tire. Then, reinstall the bead and inflate the tire. This is a good option if you need to clean lots of old sealant out of the tire, but it does have its downside. By breaking the tire bead away from the rim, you might have to reseat the tire bead onto the rim hook using compressed air. This can be a hassle if you don’t have an air compressor, a tire seating pump, or a couple of spare CO₂ canisters to burn.

Alternatively, you can add more sealant to a tire by leaving the tire completely on the rim and simply unscrewing the valve core (be sure to deflate the tire before removing the core). Then, add one to two ounces of fluid into a syringe and carefully squirt through the valve stem. Rethread the valve core in, and then reinflate. This method is less intrusive and generally will not require reseating the tubeless tire bead on the rim with compressed air. It does, however, require a fluid syringe and a valve core remover (both easy to come by, but very specific tools).

Set yourself up for success this riding season by getting your bike cleaned up, checked over, and ready to roll. Make sure your gear is in good condition, or change out any parts that have excess wear and tear. This list of checks and maintenance may seem long and daunting, but going through each component instills confidence that your bike is ready to take on the season.

If you are unsure while performing these checks, don't hesitate to take your bike to your local shop for a preseason inspection. They are professionals, after all, and will be happy to ensure your bike is safe and in tip-top shape, ready for whatever the road brings this year.